The Last Weekend in Cyprus: Part 2

When we finally reached the Kykkos Monastery, we realized what a big deal it is.  Kykkos is the largest monastery in Cyprus and has a museum that houses religious antiquities from all over, not just from Cyprus.  It is a fully functional monastery and, like the Mahairas Monastery, seems to be self-sustaining.

 We first toured the chapel that, again like the Mahairas Monastery, had frescoes on all walls and across the entire ceiling.  In an adjacent room, however, were countless reliquaries lining the walls in glass cases.  Inside these reliquaries were the bones of saints and important religious figures throughout the history of Christianity.  Sadly, everything was in Greek so I have no idea who the bones belonged to or why they were in this particular monastery. 

From here we visited the museum, which was worth the five-euro ticket price.  No pictures were allowed inside, however, due to the delicate nature of the antiquities inside. 

Inside, there were the most intricate woodcarvings I’ve ever seen. A cross that you could hold in your hand, or no taller than a standard candle pillar that sits on a table, but depicts scenes from both the old and new testaments.  Elaborate, hand brocaded religious apparel from the 1700s on was displayed in center casings.  Icons that were painted in the single digit centuries were in an adjacent room, able to be touched, still clearly honoring their holy images after all this time.  Handwritten religious texts that were created long before the invention of the printing press, as well as early printed religious works cased in intricate silver, gold and jeweled covers.

The time, energy and love poured into the creation of these items, these symbols of faith, these physical interpretations and representations of faith are almost unfathomable.  I can think of nothing in the modern world with which to compare these things.  And the fact that they have been preserved for all this time is a testament to the strength of the faith and beliefs that they represent and honor.

 Once we were finished in the museum, we walked around the monastery for a little while, observing the mosaics that were on every wall and around every corner and watching us from above.  Then we decided to find the tomb of Makarios. 

Makarios was possibly the most influential Archbishop in recent Cypriot history.  He was instrumental in leading Cypriots to rise against the British for their independence.  When he passed away, he wanted to be buried overlooking the Kyrenia mountain range in northern Cyprus since that is where he was born.  Due to the Turkish occupation though, it wouldn’t be wise to bury him in Kyrenia.  So he is buried on the mountain above the Kykkos Monastery. 

A massive bronze statue of Makarios was erected at the Bishopric in Nicosia to honor the deceased Archbishop to whom Cypriots owe so much.  But, as much as Cypriots revere Makarios’ memory, they saw the statue as an eyesore that wasn’t appropriate in the city.  So the statue was moved to the Kykkos Monastery and stands sentinel on top of the mountain, just below Makarios’ tomb.

While the tomb is open daily to visitors who wish to honor Makarios’ memory or get a better sense of the impact he had on the people of Cyprus, there are armed guards who stand by his grave, at attention, sworn to protect and preserve the pristine resting place of one of the greatest men known to Cypriots.

As we left Makarios’ tomb and headed back to Latchi, I knew that my view and understanding of religion would be forever altered.  So many people manifest their faith in such diverse ways, and so many others are willing to lay down their lives for what they believe.  In any religion, in any part of the world. 

That night at dinner with Dr. Legg and Thanos, Thanos gave me a history lesson on the Greek Orthodox tradition, which I will spare you here but will gladly share if you ask.

On the bus ride back to Nicosia Sunday afternoon, I couldn’t stop thinking about the things I’d experienced Saturday.  And the realization that I would be leaving Cyprus in just over 48 hours was finally beginning to seem like a reality.