Desolate Isolation

Today we crossed over The Green Line into the Turkish occupied territory of Northern Cyprus.  I suppose the proper title for this area would be the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC).  But I really didn't know what to expect after hearing about several experiences, which I'm now going to share.

Apparently, about a week ago, some Russian tour guides were on a cruise ship for some sort of conference in Turkey.  Turkey, which claims the lands in North Cyprus, purchased supplies for this conference from North Cyprus because it is much less expensive.  Included in these supplies was vodka because, naturally, Russians like to drink vodka. In copious amounts.  Well, this conference cruise ended with 50 tour guides checking into the hospital and, sadly, 4 of them didn't check out.

After tracing the sickness back to the cruise ship, it was discovered that the vodka was purchased from Northern Cyprus.  Furthermore, it was discovered that the vodka had been laced with methanol.

Several years ago, on a study abroad program, several students "discovered" a fairly deserted beach in the TRNC and decided it would be great to go camping there every weekend of their program.  The alcohol was cheap and no one was on the beach.  Everything seemed perfect.  Until a female got so drunk that she fell into the campfire they had made, getting third degree burns on an entire side of her body, including her face.

The group's gut reaction was to get to a hospital in the TRNC, but the female ran out (in her hospital gown with her IV drip in tow) as soon as she realized how sketchy the institution was.  She wound up being in the hospital for three weeks.

The thing is, the TRNC doesn't exist.

Turkey has been a member of NATO for many years.  Cyprus joined the European Union several years ago.  And while the whole island of Cyprus is technically a part of the EU, the EU authorities have restricted the membership, and refuse to acknowledge the legitimacy of the Turkish occupation of Northern Cyprus.

At present, Turkey is trying to join the EU, but Cyprus keeps preventing this by voting against them.  Conversely, Cyprus is unable to join NATO because Turkey keeps voting against them as well.

What we've got here is a failure to communicate.

Turkey refuses to relinquish their occupation of Northern Cyprus because it is a very strategic location, both militaristically and for trade purposes.  However, no country in the world acknowledges the legitimacy of the TRNC.  This means that any goods imported to or from the TRNC are considered illegal, in a way.  If the TRNC stamps your passport, other countries will not let you enter their borders.  Instead, the TRNC stamps a separate piece of paper that you must keep with your passport, allowing you to enter and exit the territory and access the southern part of the island.

Well, we crossed over into the TRNC today and it was very disheartening.  I don't mean that it was disappointing, by any means, I just mean that it was sad.  It pained me to think of what every Cypriot, whether Greek or Turkish, has been going through for the last 36 years.  Beyond the tourist area that immediately greets you as you cross The Green Line, everything within sight is falling into ruin.  The same history that is being preserved in Southern Cyprus is being desecrated and destroyed on the Turkish side.

In a way, it makes me think about our own country's history and, especially, the Civil War.  In both cases you have a country divided with neither side particularly willing to give in on their position at all.

While I never experienced the Civil War (shocking news, I know), and while I haven't truly experienced what all Cypriots have gone through (yes, I know, even more shocking), today put a lot of things into perspective for me.  Just as the Liberty Monument made me stop and think yesterday, today's sojourn served to make me more grateful for my personal lot in life.

I may complain about things here and there, but I've never been taken captive in my own country.  I've never been persecuted for my religious beliefs, just because they differ from someone else's.  I've never been forced out of my home, into an unfamiliar area where I have to start my life over with, more or less, only the clothes on my back.  I've never been able to see my property occupied by someone else (possibly a foreigner) and be destroyed, misused or abused while I stand by helplessly.  Hopelessly.

Experiencing life in Nicosia (or Lefkosia, as the locals call it) has been amazing.  The Greek Cypriots are so friendly and willing to accommodate this sometimes (but hopefully not always) ignorant American.  The culture seems to be rich and thriving while an active effort is made to preserve, protect and enhance the elements of the past which have helped shaped the present and will continue to do so in the future.  Perhaps this divided city has been split for so long that many people simple look at it as the way of life and move on.  But there are surely others who remember a time before.  Who can't forget the impact that this division has had on their lives. Their families. Their livelihood.

One such person who remembers is Mattheos.  Mattheos owns a small restaurant in the Old City, on the southern side of The Green Line, which he has operated for 30 years.  Prior to opening this restaurant, he actually owned a different eatery located so close to the Green Line that he was forced to relocate.

Mattheos is the chef in his own restaurant and his wife and daughter work with him.  We had the pleasure (at least it was a pleasure for me) of eating in his establishment for lunch today.

Not only were he and his family exceptionally accommodating, but they were so kind.  I actually tried a Cypriot dish that I was not particularly familiar with, called Moussaka (though I may not be spelling it correctly).

I was a little disappointed that some of my classmates opted to order spaghetti.  Particularly since we were in a local restaurant, not especially frequented by tourists and run by an owner who takes such pride in his creation of traditional Cypriot cuisine.

What you see on the plate to the right is Mattheos' Moussaka.  It consists of ground beef on top of sliced eggplant, surrounded by potatoes on one side and a grain (very similar to couscous) on the other. The entire dish was sprinkled with what tasted like grated parmesan cheese.  It was absolutely delicious and incredibly filling, haha.

The lemon and onion on the plate, in the picture above, are used as flavor enhancers.  You can cut up some onion to mix into the dish or squeeze some lemon juice on it.  Or you could simply eat the onion raw. Or the lemon for that matter (as I did, haha).

We were given small portions for dessert, which we didn't order.  So I believe it was out of the generosity of the owners that they provided us with samples, on the house.  One was a a delicious cake that was exceptionally moist.  Another was a pudding of sorts, which I think actually comes from a Lebanese background if I'm not mistaken.  And there was also what tasted like a candied fruit rind.  While I didn't care for the texture of the pudding or the rind (those of you who know my issue with certain textures can imagine the great expressions I made), the flavors were exceedingly delectable.

After we ate lunch and toured the TRNC, we made our way to the open market, which was very much like an American farmer's market.  Our purpose in going here was two-fold.  On the one hand, Dr. Legg wanted us to experience the market, which happens every Wednesday and Saturday.  On the other hand,  we wanted to film some footage of our bread making lady, who sells her bread at the market every wednesday.

The heat was oppressive today, which possibly added to the somber feeling I got when touring the TRNC.  I did, however get the opportunity to enter a Mosque, which I've experienced before.

I know I'm only posting this one blog today rather than two.  I guess that is why this one is so much longer.  I apologize if it's too lengthy, I'll make an effort to be more succinct in the future.